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Wine of the Week Profile 11/05/07
2005 Bert Simon
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Spätlese


’05 Bert Simon Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Serrig Würtzberg Riesling Spätlese $29.99
2005 Bert Simon Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Serrig Wurtzberg Riesling SpatleseIn the years 1900 through 1905, the Prussian Minister of Agriculture, Baron von Schorlemer, acquired the vineyards at Serrig for 197,000 goldmarks. Always focused on quality, von Schorlemer was one of the founding members of Der Grosse Ring—the German guild for setting the highest standard for top quality wines—and he knew just how extraordinary these vineyard sites were. The present owner of this choice estate is Bert Simon.* His family was involved in viticulture in the village of Mertesdorf on the Ruwer for ages and he grew up in a family of winemakers that instilled in him a profound respect for the grape, terroir and strict attention to detail. Forty years ago, when Bert was a young enologist, he acquired the von Schorlemer vineyards Serrig Herrenberg and Serrig Würtzberg. Both sites are monopole and almost all the vines are planted on steep, sloping hillsides. A total of 40 acres are under vines.

The Würtzberg vineyard has a steep incline—up to 75 degrees—and its soil consists of red and blue slate that also contains a fair amount of clay. This means that the Rieslings created here in good vintages tend to be weighty and full bodied. These wines tend to drink young, have integrated acidity and a lovely depth of finesse. The 2005 vintage was, of course, outstanding.

This seamless Riesling is excellent from start to finish. White peach and bracing slate mineral notes dominate the nose and are backed by hints of honeysuckle and lime peel. The palate is juicy and expansive with loads of white peach, zesty green apple, pear blossom and nuances of ginger spice and iron-laced streambed stones. Its buoyant core is beautifully structured with fruit and well-integrated acidity that is layered with cool mineral tones and carries into a long, silky finish. This enchanting Riesling is a pleasure to drink by itself or with a host of seafood, Asian or spicy duck dishes.

—Donald

* The 2005 vintage is Bert Simon’s last vintage, as he has decided to retire. Bert Simon has long been a stellar fixture in the Saar. I have had the honor of working with him here in NYC—his warmth and easygoing nature made understanding and truly appreciating German wines a pleasure. He was a true ambassador of Riesling. The estate was recently acquired by a private investor, Dr. Jochen Siemens. Dr. Siemens has a genuine commitment to the future of the estates and we at PJ’s are eagerly awaiting his efforts from these storied vineyards.

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