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Wine of the Week Profile 12/10/07
2005 Lucien Barrot et Fils
Châteauneuf du Pape


2005 Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils Chateauneuf du Pape’05 Domaine Lucien Barrot et Fils Châteauneuf du Pape $32.99
The Barrot family has been making wine in Châteauneuf du Pape since 1690. This is an ultra-traditional winery, which means that the grape bunches are not destemmed before pressing, the wine is always crushed and fermented in concrete vats, and then it is aged in large foudres. The use of new oak is unheard of here and for the last two decades, the Barrots have employed neither fining nor filtration and that greatly enhances the wine’s expression of fruit and terroir.

Making wine here has always been family affair. Lucien Barrot established his domain at Chemin du Clos in 1975 and today it is run by his son Régis Barrot. Composed predominantly of Grenache (usually around 80%), with Syrah, Mourvèdre and Cinsault completing the blend—making this an elegant, yet deliciously drinkable wine. The vines of this estate average over 60 years in age. Despite the fact that ’05 was an extremely dry vintage—with little or no rainfall throughout the southern Rhône—the vines in ’05 did receive enough night time moisture to flourish despite the hot, arid days. Excellent ripening conditions mean ideal maturity at the tail end of a long hot summer.

This powerful Châteauneuf has a nose that is dominated by juicy black plum, sweet cherry, and warm cassis notes melded to a sensual undercurrent of silken raspberry tones and dusty garrigue. The palate—although somewhat shy at first—gradually unfurls with a broad, panoramic palate of black fruit backed by violet, a suggestion of lavender and thyme followed by sun-baked stones braced by a graceful touch of oak.

—Donald

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