This ’04 Crianza is a blend of 97% Temprranillo and a tiny bit of Graciano. All of the bunches of grapes are destemmed before being pressed and the cap is punched repeatedly to maximize the wine’s ruby color. After fermentation the wine rests in American oak for a year. The wine is then bottled and held at the bodega for another year before it is labeled and then sold.

Deep ruby in the glass with red brick overtones and shimmering purple highlights. A seductive nose seemingly possessed by baskets of ripe plum, crushed berries, a hint of honey blossoms and round oak notes. A round velvety palate with gracious ripe berry and plum flavors that are augmented by a lingering—long after the finish—note of warm oak. Serve this gem with Cornish hen, suckling pig, roast beef and mashed potatoes, roasted lamb or semi-soft veined cheeses.

This ’04 Crianza from Marques De Tomares drinks like an exceptional Reserva at twice the price. For those interested in taking the plunge in fantastic Gran Reserva I highly recommend the wine below.

’96 Marqués de Tomares Rioja Gran Reserva $39.99
This gorgeous, classic and elegant Rioja has suddenly hit that sweet-spot in its evolution and is unfolding beautifully now. One of the top wines of this small, family-owned winery, this powerful Gran Reserva tends to be tightly wound and earthy in its youth, but is now sure to enthrall lovers of traditional Rioja. The nose opens with ripe plum and black currant scents, followed by secondary notes of dried orange peel, bacon, cocoa powder, ash and spice. The palate is full of red berry flavors, a hint more orange peel, plus cocoa powder, tobacco, damp earth and leather nuances. Finishes very smooth and long with plenty of succulence, leaving you reaching for another rich, complex glass. Serve with roast fowl, lamb, beef or game.

—Donald