In fact, Boccadigabbia was once one of the individual farms that made up the “Aministrazione Bonaparte of Civitanova,” which was a massive agricultural estate that for over a century was an influential example of modern, sustainable agriculture. This portion of the land was owned by the former Bonaparte administration. It was inherited by Napoleon III and during this time French varietals were introduced to the region. However, in the late 1960s, it was decided by the local government to exclusively cultivate grapes on the property that were geared toward the production of local “everyday wine” and unfortunately the older varieties, direct descendants of those planted by Hallaire, Napoleon III’s agronomist-superintendent, were torn out of the vineyard. To recoup this catastrophic loss, a program was launched in the mid-80s to re-plant the lost Cabernet, Merlot, and Pinot Noir; the goal was to achieve the high quality of the “Amministrazione Bonaparte of Civitanova” grapes.

This blend of 50% Montepulciano and 50% Sangiovese is raised on sandy soils. The vines are hand harvested in late September for the Sangiovese and late October for the Montepulciano. Then the grapes are crushed and lightly pressed. Next, the must is fermented in stainless-steel vats. The wine undergoes extensive maceration on the skins and is then stored in old French barriques for a year.

This modern interpretation of Rosso Piceno exhibits a deep velvety ruby red in the glass and supple red fruit notes along with lovely scents of wild berry, chocolate and vanilla on the nose. A densely woven expression of ripe fruit, silken terroir and velvety tannins characterizes this appealing, seductive wine. This Rosso Piceno is the perfect companion to the traditional dishes of Central Italy, as well as pork loin sausage and grilled steak.

—Donald