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Wine of the Week Profile 03/31/08
2002 Tobias Napa Valley Zinfandel

2002 Tobias Napa Valley Zinfandel’02 Tobias Napa Valley Zinfandel $17.97
Ric Forman of the Forman Winery is half of the winemaking team behind this exciting winery and his son, Tobias, makes up the other half. Most of the grapes that went into this stellar Napa Valley Zinfandel have been sourced from the Howell Mountain and were planted in 1914 and the rest of this blend is made up from vines that were planted in 1926 and sourced from the Chiles Valley. This is a truly unique small-production cuvée—only 250 cases made—and it is a fantastic find.

The Formans are fantastic non-interventionist winemakers. The ’02 Tobias Zinfandel is a somewhat leaner Zin, and it is also a deftly balanced and a very age-able wine. As many of you may know, Forman wines can age for a very long time and really interesting things start happening in the bottle of a Forman Cab after a decade or so. This limited, one-of-a-kind Zin is no exception as the staff here at PJ’s knows and we feel that it has the ability to age and evolve gracefully in bottle as well as reward those who open and decant it now and let it take a long deep breath before plunging in.

Aged in 100% French oak for 16 months with a manageable alcohol level of 14.6%, this is a “Cab-structured” Zinfandel with plenty of deep red fruit and berry aromatics that also offers up a smattering of roasted herbs bound to pretty old-vine briariness, and a hint of fresh mint. The palate is loaded with bright red fruit, creamy blueberry flavors and plum fruit tones hewn to the lean tannins on the long, lingering finish. This is NOT your average over-jammy, extracted, prune driven hot Zinfandel. This wine has a beautiful finesse and it sings alongside grilled sausages, roast beef and grilled lamb.

“Medium red. Nuanced nose combines cherry, smoke, underbrush, licorice, flowers and vanillin oak. Enticing, supple red fruit and spice flavors show a restrained sweetness. Finishes with big, dusty, even tannins. Made by Ric Forman's son Toby, who noted that the wine is made very much like the Forman cabernet, except that it spends only a year in barrel. His objective is to make a zinfandel that's not pruney. Both claret and Burgundy came to mind as I sampled this wine; by comparison, the 2001 release was a bit more convincing as zinfandel. But this is round and very easy to drink.” —IWC 90

—Donald

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