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Wine of the Week Profile 04/21/08
2006 Goisot “Corps de Garde” Saint-Bris Fié Gris

2006 Goisot Corps de Garde Burgundy Saint-Bris Fie Gris’06 Goisot “Corps de Garde” Saint-Bris Fié Gris $18.99
For Ghislaine and Jean-Hughes Goisot, the greatness of their wines begins in the vineyard—with organic farming. As every reader of this column knows by now, organic winemaking produces wines with very distinctive character, mirroring the soils in which they are grown while strict soil management on behalf of the grower stimulates the natural defenses of the vines and protects against bad weather, insect infestation and mold spreading diseases. Highly restricted yields produce intensified, character-driven wines with rich flavors. Located in the northwest of Burgundy, the cooler climate of Saint-Bris helps the Goisots produce a more refined wine with much more minerality than many whites found west of Chablis and a richness and complexity of flavors unheard of further south in the Côte Chalonnaise.

Fié Gris is the ancestor of Sauvignon Blanc and is also known as Sauvignon Rosé. The vines produce very low yields with great density and length making the grape superior to Sauvignon Blanc in many ways. It boasts aromatics that are enchanting and exotic without being excessive. Fié Gris could be compared to a very fine Alsatian Pinot Gris, but it shows a more austere elegance. The Goisots’ tiny plot of young vines provides only small quantities of wine.

The arrival of this highly refined and miraculously affordable ’06 Fié Gris is cause for celebration here at PJ’s. Vintage after vintage Ghislaine and Jean-Hughes have crafted this consistently stunning cuvée and it is one of the most highly sought-after and delectable French whites that we have the honor of offering you. The nose provides delicate floral notes, melded beautifully to broad notes subtle tones of pulverized stone and a dazzling suggestion of honeysuckle blossom. On the palate, lemony flavors are inflected with chalky minerality. Deft notes of sweet summer melon elegantly build through the mid-palate. Vibrant terroir driven acidity provides backbone and carries into a long, nuanced finish. Ideal with rabbit terrine, fois gras spread on good country bread, grilled shrimp, pork loin in a cream sauce and soft ripened cheeses.

—Donald

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