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Wine of the Week Profile 06/15/09

2007 J. J. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Mosel Kabinett

Prum Graach Kabinett’07 J. J. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Mosel Kabinett $31.99

The Prüm family has called the village of Wehlen home for many centuries; the ancestors of the current family of winemakers were living in or near Wehlen in the year 1156. The wines from J.J. Prüm have a well deserved reputation for being very long-lived. The 55 hectare estate has holdings in the best parts of the Mosel including; Wehlener Sonnenuhr, Zeltinger Sonnenuhr and Graacher Himmelreich. Plantings of the estate are 95% Riesling and the vines are located entirely on steeply sloping (70 to 90 degrees) Devon schist soil.

The 2007 vintage in Germany was an extraordinary one, I've raved about the fantastic Rieslings created in 2005 and of course 2001 was one of the greatest vintages in over a century, but many of the wines crafted in 2007-and this Graccher Himmelrich Kabinett from Prum is a stellar representation of the vintage-will be very hard to beat!

Pale in the glass with lovely scents of crushed roses and grated lime skins. The palate is a delectable expression of pear nectar and a dazzling hint of guava paste nestled on a bed of limestone infused citrus zest. Folds of silken mineral textures are seamlessly integrated in the purity of white fruit that dominates the mid-palate. These silken folds are set-off by the dazzling acidity that rides out on the long and luxuriously succlent finish. Serve this gem now with diver scallops sautéed in butter, grilled pork loin and apricots, tilapia tacos loaded with homemade salsa, barbequed spare-ribs, pulled pork and fried chicken or cellar it for another 5 to 10 years and savor it then.

“Elegant and stylish, revealing floral, lime, slate and saline notes allied to a gossamer frame. There's an intensity that dissipates slowly, with a mouthwatering aftertaste. Drink now through 2022.”– 91WS

—Donald

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