So ancient is grape growing in this northwestern section of Spain, that the name Valdeorras ("Valley of Gold") can trace its origins to the days when Romans mined the fertile soil here for the riches of ore, replacing the nuggets they took away with a few a vines in their place. And while Galicia is more well-known for its bright and bracing white Albariño, ripe, the concentrated reds made from Mencía are a treasure, too. This offering from Bodegas Ruchel has the grape's trademark rich hue, here the color of black cherries and with a concentrated, fruit nose reminiscent of plum pie, ripe raspberries, and an earthiness akin to saddle leather. In your mouth, the tannins hold firm and taut, while bright red fruit and allspice make this bottle a great choice for big-personality meat like grilled lamb or game.--PJ