Moving ever closer to farming biodynamically in his south-Austrian vineyards on the border of Hungary, Uwe Schiefer (a fortuitous winemaker's name if there ever were one: it translates to mean "slate"), this medium-bodied Blaufrankish is an unbridled burst of tart cherries, spice, coffee, and an awesome bit of bretty, barnyard funk that keeps things really interesting. Its great acidity cut nicely through velvety slices of rich duck liver pate. -- PJ