Fiano di Avellino is one of four current DOCG's in southern Italy, and Mastroberadino has long been a flag-carrier for showing off native varietals, like this lush, reasonably priced version. Its fleshy, plush nature makes it a perfect cold-weather white pick, especially for dishes like kosher-salt rubbed chicken roasted hot and quick, or crispy crab cakes. The 2010 has got some pretty grapefruit and pear notes, hazelnuts, and honey with a nice, underlying smoky minerality that keeps things interesting. -- PJ