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Celler del Roure Safra 2015 (750ml)

Celler del Roure Safra 2015 (750ml)

Organic
Spanish for saffron, Safra is a wine that shows thegrowing confidence of Pablo Calatayud in the ancient stone lagars and subterranean clay amphorae present at Celler del Roure. Safra is a blend of Mando, the principal indigenous grape of this part of Valencia, with a small amount of Garnacha Tintorera. Harvested by hand and partially destemmed, this cuvee is fermented by natural yeasts in stone lagars and stainless steel tanks then aged for 6 months in amphorae. This is about as pure and naked an example of Valencian wine as once can find, showing a brightness of fruit and a forthright and alluringly authenticity.

92 James Suckling
A red that shows black pepper, cherries and some garrigue in the background. It's fresh and attractive with a medium body and fruity finish. Intriguing wine. Drink now.

Everything old is new again. If you had visited Celler del Roure ten years ago you would have been treated to a modern, minimalist and spotless cellar with assorted stainless steel tanks and new French oak barrels. After touring the current technology in viniculture you would be taken on a tour of the ancient property including an old olive oil press, various outbuildings and an subterranean cellar dug into the bedrock below the estate. This cellar afforded a glimpse of the winemaking practices from centuries ago. The winding halls of the cellar are lined by dozens of amphorae embedded into the earth with individual stone lids. Many are joined by stone channels carved into the rock, serving as the most rudimentary form of gravity flow. Some amphorae had cracked over the years but a surprising number remained in perfect condition.

Such a complete and well preserved artifact of viniculture would have remained an intellectual curiosity for most people, but Pablo saw it as an opportunity to explore how wines were made centuries ago and how the would have tasted. Such an endeavor makes complete sense once you meet Pablo and understand his connection with the history of the region of Valencia around the village of Moixent. As a proponent of the indigenous varieties of the area such as Mando and Verdil how could he not also champion indigenous viniculure? While there are still “modern” wines made at Roure including 16 Gallets, Les Alcusses and Maduresa we are quite taken with the new cuvées aged in amphorae in the ancient cellar: Cullerot, Vermell, Safrà and Parotet.

The amphorae wines from Celler del Roure are blends of indigenous varieties, many of which are unknown outside of Valencia. For Cullerot Pablo continues to seek out old vineyards of white varieties such as Tortosina, Malvasía, Verdil, Merseguera and Pedro Ximénez. For Vermell it is Monastrell, Garnacha Tintorera and Mandó. Safra leaves out the Monastrell for Mandó with a touch of Garnacha Tintorera while Parotet is Mandó and Monastrell.

Pablo’s vineyards are farmed manually and organically and harvests are by hand in small crates. Vine age ranges from 15 to 70 years old and the soils are various clays – ranging from fine alluvial and loamy soils to rockier limestone terroirs. Increasingly he is using more and more whole clusters in the fermentation fiding the finished wines are more refined and savory – elements that are emphasized by the aging in amphorae.

Code: W10686 Share With Friends

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